[Note: The
following is an account of Castle Garden in 1866 from the New
York Times Marine Intelligence Column of December 23, 1866.]
The daybreak of a bright Autumn morning beamed over the
magnificent Bay of New York City as the ship Scotland, conveying
some 300 emigrants from the Old World, fired a salute and cast
anchor ., amid the ringing cheers of passengers and crew. It
was right pleasant -- after a passage somewhat protracted, but,
for the season of the year, unprecedentedly propitious -- to at
length enter the haven where we would be. With the exception of
two or three nights of turbulent weather and hyperborean blasts
as she passed the Banks of Newfoundland, where many a noble ship
has met her fate, the voyage of The Scotland was a most
favorable one and for days and days we floated over the Atlantic
on a sea so level and under a sky so calm that a pleasure yacht
might have sailed over it in safety. It was indeed exhilarating,
after days and nights of endurance in cabin and on deck, with
the ever-same boundless blue and green of firmament and sea,
with only now and then a ship in sight, or the wild wheeling
sea-gull on the vessel's track, to come in view of something
like land and the great City of the world's commonwealth, New
York.
It was a sunrise in the New World! and a glorious and
electrifying sight it was, as the sun, about to ascend the
horizon, flooded cloud, sky, bay and seaboard, shipping and the
surrounding scenery with streaks of gold and purple - the great
City itself, and its sister cities of Brooklyn and New-Jersey,
waking up as it were at some celestial summons out of the dreamy
darkness of the night.
"Fair was the day, in short, earth, sea and sky beamed like a
bright-eyed face that laughs out openly." The steamtug. having
come alongside, was engaged for a considerable time in
transhipping the luggage, till at length we were safely landed
on the threshold of Castle Garden, glad and grateful to set foot
on the terra firma of the free, and rest our weary limbs and
sea-worm souls and systems under the wing and welcome of its
refuge. Here again at the landing stage, during the process of
the second transhipment, a further opportunity was presented of
viewing the river scenery, now diversified with its
swift-moving, mansion-looking steamers, which fairly astonished
the weak eyes and nerves of those accustomed only to the
lilliputian streams and petit maitre miniature landscapes of
England and Europe. Truly the approach to New York is one of the
most splendid and imposing in the world. Talk about the approach
by the Thames to London Bridge, by the Mersey to Liverpool, by
the Seine to Paris, or the Lagune to Venice! Why, you might as
well compare the aforesaid muddy Thames to the great father of
waters, the Mississippi, or British Snowden and the Malvern
Hills to the Rocky Mountains. Things European dwindle, as it
were, into specks and points infinitesimal before these
stupendous stretchings and these bold outspreadings. It is
Hyperion to Satyr, a wash hand-basin to a bay, and never do you
so completely realize the old schoolboy reminiscence. Sic parvis
componere magna solbam. As it always happens when the attention
is absorbed, or the mind rapt in admiration, something
extraneous steps in to mar the meditation, just as on some
Summer evening when the landscape is a all lovely and serene
some grasshopper of bull-frog disturbs the quietude, so
illustrating the potent truth of but "one step from the sublime
to the ridiculous". A bystander, in a strong Hibernian brogue,
volunteers the erudite observation, "Arrah, Pat, and what do you
think of Dublin Bay after that," while another from Cockney Land
apostrophizes a companion, and asks him what about the breadth
of Old Father Thames at Putney. We had seen multitudes of
churches, public buildings, factories, stores, and other
structures, as we steamed up the Bay, but the one we had now
arrived at, Castle Garden, attracted particular attention,
principally, in all probability, from its being the emigrants'
destination. The eye of a military man would have singled it out
first and foremost as a structure pertaining to his profession,
while the eye of a civilian or of an ordinary observer would
have taken it for a huge reservoir or gas-holder. The landing
stage is all alive with the officers of the Emigration
Commissioners and the Custom-house, and while they are engaged
in their duties, the more curious are all on the qui vive to
ascertain what can be the nature and object of the structure
before them. Although appropriated to the purposes of an
emigrant depot, it turns out to be an old fortress or castle,
and remains one of the great landmarks or trophies in that
eternally memorable struggle -- the first great war of
independence. It was built by the British in 1812, after the
model of the Martello towers of the old country, when they
entertained the fond but futile hope of colonizing, or, in the
language (Heaven save the mark) of modern diplomacy, "annexing"
America to Great Britain, and has stood dismantled and in
memoriam ever since. The building is of red granite, of
tremendous thickness, circular in form, and furnished with
portholes and platforms, so that it is available at any moment
for the defense of the harbor, only requiring a garrison and a
few grim Dahlgrens to impart to it its real character.
Truly strange and checkered is the history of this structure.
After the first war, and when the peace and prosperity of the
City were in their zenith, the building was converted into a
saloon for the amusement of the people, and has on occasions
held as many as 4,000 people, when JENNY LIND, the Swedish
Nightingale, and MARIO and GRISI electrified with their melody
the musical elite of New-York. Here also JULLIEN wielded his
magic and memorable baton before thousands at his promenade
concert. The building has also since been devoted to religious
services and the meetings of mechanic' institutions. Although
the saying of SHAKESPEARE be trite, yet the ever freshness of it
is a truism, both to men and things -- "To what strange uses do
we come at last!" -- is curiously applicable in this case, for
now more marvelous still we have the structure devoted to one of
the noblest of humanitarian uses, that of a depot, established
by a paternal Republic for the strangers and children of other
lands who seek its shores in such undiminished shoals.
All being ready, the emigrants proceed in a body up the corridor
into the interior of the building, their boxes and baggage being
removed to the luggage warehouses, and here they range
themselves in order on the seats. In front of them, and in the
centre of the building, which is lit by a glass dome, stand a
staff of some dozen gentlemen, all busily engaged in making
arrangements for facilitating the movements and promoting the
settlement of the newly-arrived emigrants. Each emigrant, man,
woman and child, passes up in rotation to the Bureau, and gives
to the registrar his or her name and destination, as a check
upon the return of the Captain of the vessel, who gives the
name, place of birth, age and occupation. One of the leading
officers connected with the Bureau of Information then mounts a
rostrum, and addressing the assembled emigrants, tells them that
such as are not otherwise provided for, or prepared to pay for
their accommodation, can find shelter under the roof of that
building; that advice and information of the best and most
reliable kind can be had relative to tickets for railway and
steamer to take them East, West, North or South; as to the best
means of obtaining employment, for which a register is kept in
the Intelligence Department of the Institution; also as to the
best and most expeditious routes to take, with facilities for
corresponding with friends, and of changing money at the Bureau
of Exchange. The Intelligence Department is largely resorted to
by emigrants, inasmuch as there they can obtain information as
to probable situations without fee, for which outside they are
asked $2 by the employment agents. A careful supervision is
exercised by the office as to the suitability and respectability
of the parties on both sides. All this is well and wisely done
for the protection of the emigrant, who would otherwise, if let
to himself, become the prey of sharpers, boarding-house
"runners", "scalpers", leafers, et id genus omne. Such as are
ill or invalid are at once sent to the State Hospital, where
they receive the best of medical treatment and general
attention. A tolerable estimate may be formed of the work and
labor devolving on the establishment, when it is remembered that
during the past month of November, 17,280 emigrants had arrived
at Castle Garden, or a grand total of 219,830 to that date since
the beginning of the year, while according to the latest return
made up to Thursday last, the total number of arrivals from
January to Dec. 5, had reached the enormous number of 222,494,
being an increase of 26,142 over the corresponding period of the
preceding year--all permeating and passing through the great
artery of life and labor at Castle Garden. The advantages
conferred by the regulations of the institution are developed
every day in the shield of protection that, by means of its
advice, information and police, it confers on the unsuspecting
emigrant and on the unprotected female, the friendless, the
orphan and the widow.
Such is Castle Garden as a great national refuge for the
emigrant from all lands. It has nothing to parallel it on the
continent of Europe. It stands alone in its noble and
utilitarian character.
It was nearly evening before all the business connected with the
emigrant department was over and the emigrants began to settle
down in their new locality, and the building being lit up with
gas gave a more cheerful aspect to the interior, and enabled us
to survey the somewhat novel scene before us. You could at first
imagine, were you not painfully conscious to the contrary, that
all those human beings seated on the benches had assembled to
witness some theatrical entertainment. On looking right and
left, an arrangement will be observed to have been effected,
pace the emigrants marched in miscellaneously---the Germans and
Dutch, who form by far the most numerous body, being parceled
off into the eastern portion of the building, which is separated
from the other portion, which contains indiscriminately English,
Irish, Scotch and French. Two large iron stoves, between four
and five feet high, fed with plentiful supplies of anthracite,
and throwing out considerable heat, occupy each end of these
apartments, one being set apart for the males and the other for
the females. In a far corner of each compartment is a kind of
refectory, where for fifteen or twenty cents you can obtain a
half a pint of coffee, a roll, cheese or butter; but many of the
emigrants appeared to prefer purchasing their own tea and
coffee, and preparing it in tin utensils in the stoves. There
are two water taps and an iron ladle at each end of the
division, from which draughts of the Croton are in constant
request, nothing in the shape of wine, lager beer or spirits
being allowed to be sold upon the premises. Two very civil and
intelligent watchmen reconnoitre during the night to keep order
and attend upon the emigrants, both having served their country
in the late war. One will not very readily forget his first
nights' sojourn at Castle Garden. They were indeed "noctes
noiauda"---anything but "noctes ambrosiana"---it's hard boards
anything but a bed of roses. Having determined to rough it with
our traveling companions, who could not afford a dollar for
their bed and breakfast, we essayed a sleep, but vainly. Somnus
had no compassion on the denizens of Castle Garden, however much
they may invoke him, for such is the cold comfortless,
sepulchral character of the place. This, it is only fair to
state, was the experience of the writer before the building had
been placed in thorough repair arising from the wind whistling
through the open casemates, doors and windows, combined with the
tantamara of tongues, the squalling of children and the erratic
ramblings round about of a colony of rats that it was impossible
to obtain repose, even after a fortnight's rocking to and fro
and reeling in the Scotland, the snug hammock of which was a
comparative paradise to this. Those who were unable to sleep
rose and stood around the stoves.
One subject of conversation adverted to with melancholy interest
had reference to the suspected murder of one of the emigrants as
the Scotland was leaving Liverpool. At all advents, the body of
a respectably-dressed man, with a letter in his pocket was found
stowed away in one of the recesses of the engine room, some 30
feet below deck, and in a place the seamen and firemen affirm
where it could not have got by accident or a fall. The
supposition is that the man was first murdered on board, and
then secreted below. The head and body were dreadfully
mutilated. On being discovered the body was wrapped, with some
fire bars in canvas and thrown overboard. We are not aware of
whether any report of this mysterious affair was made to the
Emigration Commissioners or to the British Consul either here or
at Liverpool, but it was a matter that called for investigation,
and cast a gloom over the passengers for the remainder of her
voyage. Every one, through the columns of the NEW-YORK TIMES, is
now familiar with the ultimate unhappy fate of the Scotland on
her return voyage, the fourteenth that she had made in and out
in the service of the Transatlantic Emigration and of the
National Steamship Companies. But there is one interesting
incident illustrative of the sagacity and fidelity of a
Newfoundland dog on board the derelict vessel, the Kate Dyer,
that deserves to be recorded. Just after the vessel was run down
by the Scotland and about to sink, the dog was seen to rush into
the water and endeavor to rescue a youth from the watery grave
that awaited him. Three successive times the dog dragged the
body of the boy from the sinking ship, and the third time it
slipped from him; foiled in his attempt he stood for a minute or
two more howling and mournfully watching the scene, until, in
desperation, he made a fourth attempt to float the body, but
with no greater success than before; unsuccessful in saving the
life of the lad, the Captain and crew of the Scotland, who had
been intently watching the efforts of the noble animal, rewarded
him by saving his life and hauling him in safely on board ship
amid the cheers and congratulations of the crew.
As may be imagined, much of the conversation of the sleepless
emigrants that night was directed to the good or bad fortune
they had met with during the day in quest of situations and
employment, and many came back reporting dolefully and
despondently in that respect. Bakers butchers, boiler-makers,
gardeners, grooms, and in fact masters of almost every calling
to be found in the book of trades, all stated how they had
canvassed the various establishments in the great City during
the day, and had found, with some few exceptions, that they were
all full, and that no help or hands were wanted. Never were the
advertisements columns of the TIMES and other papers, for "help
wanted," devoured with such avidity or the few cents for their
purchase invested in them with such readiness, and it is
gratifying to state that in very many instances they led to the
procurement for the poor emigrant of a billet and a home. The
report of a second and subsequent day's pursuit of employment
under difficulties showed a much more gratifying result. Some
had been temporarily, and others conditionally, engaged, either
in factories or at farm-work, the latter at $12 a month and
their keep, while many who had not succeeded were kindly sent,
by order of the Commissioners, to Ward's Island, to be employed
in miscellaneous work about the State Hospital and grounds, or
to work at their respective trades, for which they received
their board and lodging in return, until something better could
be obtained for them. Most of the strong, healthy girls and
young women, principally Irish, succeed, through the agency of
the Labor Department of the Commissioners, in obtaining
situations as housemaids, nursemaids, milliners, sewing-machine
hands and dressmakers, and in a few days bid adieu to the
sheltering care of Castle Garden. At one time, when matters
looked very discouraging in the way of getting work, and many of
the emigrants, after disposing of their wearing apparel, were
reduced to their last few cents, the propriety of waiting in a
body on the British Consul was mooted, but the suggestion was
not carried out in that form. One or two, however, did venture
in their individual capacity, to wait on that functionary, and
after making a statement of their forlorn and embarrassed
condition, were informed, to their great discomfiture and
chagrin, that the Consul, although the representative of Great
Britain for the protection and assistance of British subjects,
had no power to render them relief, pecuniarily or otherwise,
and that all he had the power of doing was to give assistance to
seamen in shipwreck or distress. A poor Frenchman, who had been
a waiter in Leicester Square, reduced to his last sous, also
waited on the French Consul and was told to "go to Castle
Garden." A similar application to a Society entitled the St.
George's Society, having the reputation in England of being a
good Samaritan body of gentlemen who relieved and assisted
Englishmen on their arrival here, met with a similar result, it
being explained by the Secretary that the limited funds at the
command of the Society were appropriated to the assistance, not
of emigrant Englishmen, but of needy natives and of indigent men
and women far advanced in years. Well with such Job's comforters
as these, might the aid of Providence be invoked by the poor
emigrant! Still, as a pleasing set-off to all this, many were
the little incidents told of hospitality and charity shown by
residents and natives to the newcomers in their difficulty--such
as the giving them a day's work and a dollar, or a hearty meal
and information as to the best means of getting work, showing a
genuine sympathy and fellow-feeling on the part of those who had
once been adrift and in difficulty themselves.
Among the emigrants that came out on the Scotland, were three or
four poor fellows who turned out to be "stow-aways"--that is to
say, persons who had stowed themselves away clandestinely on
board, anxious to get across, and willing to run the risk of
doing so, even at the risk of three months hard labor. They were
not discovered until the vessel neared New York, when every man
was challenged for his ticket, and of course, in these cases,
there being none to produce, the interlopers were detected and
taken before the Captain, who at first threatened to exhibit
them in irons on the quarterdeck, but relenting, on second
consideration in his more serious intentions, he determined,
after the administration of a few cuffs and a severe shaking
from one of the mates, on making them work the remainder of
their passage, and forthwith, the ship being short of hands, set
them about swabbing the decks and helping the firemen in the
coal bunks. And right glad were our "stowaways" of the mercy
shown them, seeing that they had all along secured, and would
continue to do so, food and lodging to the end of the voyage. At
one time it was seriously contemplated by some of the more
desponding and disappointed to turn "stowaway" and return from
whence they came, in spite of being made the laughing-stock of
those at home; and some half-dozen, who could not be induced "to
wait a little longer," actually went on board to return with the
Scotland.
A very noticeable thing among the miscellaneous crowd was the
attention paid by the Irish portion of it to their devotions.
Invariably as vesper and matin time drew nigh, men and women
scattered here and there were to be seen upon their knees in
supplication. At least one-third of the emigrants by the
Scotland were Irish, most of them vigorous, spirited young men,
many of them bent on joining the Fenian brotherhood, and
speaking enthusiastically of its progress. There were two or
three young priests among the number. It is astonishing how the
Irish take to this country, and no wonder when it is remembered
how differently they are treated to what they are in the old, of
which they speak with great bitterness of spirit. Many are the
weeping eyes and widowed hearts, that now under the great exodus
going on are leaving their native shores, and it is understood
that in the Spring the number of new-comers, more particularly
from the counties of Waterford, Wexford and Cork, will be
enormous. They know they can find a free home in the far west,
and that they will be treated with kindness --- kindness that
great key to good will and willingness of every man's heart, the
want of which on the part of England and the English people, not
less than their political wrongs and maltreatment, has been the
great secret of the inveterate and vendetta-like feeling and
alienation of Ireland from the mother country. In the States,
they no longer have "the country" thrown in their face, and "no
Irish need apply" is never heard in dealing with Americans.
There was one among the group of woman who was the object of
great commiseration. She had lost her little one on the voyage,
from fever, and the poor child had to be thrown overboard, she,
poor mother, being left, like Rachel, weeping for her child and
would not be comforted because it was no more. It is indeed a
sad thing to have to hide one's offspring in the grave on land,
but there is something about death and burial in the cold canvas
winding-sheet at sea, in a fathomless grave, yet harder and more
galling. It is pitiable to perceive the condition of some of the
young women who arrive from the mother country in the family
way, though it is at the same time satisfactory to think that
they will not aid in swelling the huge holocaust of infanticide
there, but that their offspring, cherished and taken care of
with the mothers by the State Hospital here, will form additions
to the future populations. There was no prohibition against
"smoking" at the Garden, his pipe being one of the prime
comforts and companions of the poor immigrant in all his
vicissitudes and "trials,"and the fragrant weed was freely
indulged in, the more so as it was very properly prohibited,
excepting on deck, during the voyage, or if indulged in, it was
at the risk of being put in irons by the Captain. Two stories
were told of two adventures in one of the least reputable parts
of the City, not a stone's throw from Castle Garden, which if
true, or of more frequent occurrence, call for serious
investigation. A mulatto man from Liverpool, going down South to
the cotton plantations with which he was connected, states that
on one occasion he went into one of the lager-beer saloons; and
having occasion to go into the back part of the premises,
through a long and dingy corridor, when at the end the gas-light
was suddenly extinguished, and hearing some mysterious
movements, and mindful not only of his life, but watch and
money, he precipitately and successfully recovered his way back
and immediately left the suspicious premises and people, from
which he heartily congratulated himself on his escape. Another
emigrant went, the day after his landing, into a lager-beer shop
kept by an Irishman, in Washington Street, without knowing the
character of the locality, had a glass of beer, and sat down to
rest himself, and, being rather travel-worn and weary, after
being about ten minutes in the bar unconsciously closed his
eyes. Suddenly the brute of a bartender, in a rude Irish brogue,
ordered him to get up and go out. Taken by surprise at the
abruptness of the treatment, the poor emigrant stood and stared,
when the ruffian seized a heavy wooden club in the corner, and,
uttering an oprecation about the English threatened to smash his
customer's brains out, and as he slowly left the place, actually
hit him a heavy blow with his club upon the shoulder. The
occurrence may be left to speak for itself, and may be
recommended to the notice of the Police. As a general rule, the
emigrants behaved themselves throughout the voyage, with
remarkable decorum, which was not even infringed upon when one
fine night they held a sort of sea-carnival or dance on the
after deck of the Scotland. It was pitiful to meet with some at
the Garden who had to bemoan the loss of their boxes, and
ludicrous on the other hand to see how one poor girl had
contrived to keep all her earthly stock of goods in the fragile
interior of two bandboxes.
Many were the complaints made by the poorer class of
emigrants---forgetting that it all arose out of the war---at the
high price of provisions---just double that in many instances
they paid in the old country, and hoping that, if for their
sakes only, the country would soon return to the ante-war
prices---a consummation most devoutly to be wished. All appeared
to be hearty and in good health, that most priceless of
blessings, for "he that hath thee," says Sterne, "has everything
with thee, but he that is so wretched as to want thee wants
everything with thee." Only one or two cases had to be sent to
the hospital, and altogether the vessel had a clean bill of
health, far different from last year, when owing to the
prevalence of cholera, many died and had to be thrown overboard.
No inconsiderable amount of thieving occurred both on board and
at Castle Garden, of wearing apparel and other articles and one
night at the Castle one emigrant, subsequently detected through
the vigilance of Officer Murphy, had the effrontery to rob
another by whose side he was sleeping of his watch. In fact
nothing was safe out of sight or hands for a minute from the
marauders and pilferers. The crew of the Scotland being
short-handed many of the emigrants were well cared for in grub
and grog and paid extra for lending a hand on deck, and most
lustily did they work at the ropes, singing "Yea, yeo, yea, yeo,
we are all bound to go." Many of the men had become grizzly and
hirsute, and much wanted a clean shave, but almost stood aghast
when they heard that it would cost them twenty-five cents to
have their beards taken off--an operation that, when last
effected, they only paid a penny for. I have since seen some of
those emigrants who were at first so despondent and could get no
work, and it was delightful to see what transformation they had
undergone. They had obtained situations either in stores or in
some capacity and were all happiness and smiles. Their patience
and perseverance had been rewarded. One or two practical
thoughts and suggestions appear to arise out of the foregoing
"olla pedrida" of the experiences of an emigrant. It would be a
good plan if the Commissioners, in order to facilitate and
increase the opportunities of getting work, were to invite
notifications wherever hands were required from establishments
and factories throughout the City and State, and keep a register
for the purpose. Lists might be advantageously posted up in the
garden, together with the daily newspapers, for the information
of the emigrants. The vast space at present unappropriated in
the balconies of the building might be converted into
dormitories for the women and children, and those in delicate
health, and a towel or two, some soap, and other requisites,
would be useful supplemental articles in the washing rooms. Many
a poor emigrant comes over in a filthy and verminous condition,
and the first thing done with such would be to order them a bath
and send them to the hospital, where their clothes might undergo
a process of purification and fumigation, and so prevent the
spread in the New World of the pestilences of the old. It is
true the emigrant can go to church, but a better observance of
the Sabbath might be added to the other regulations and
arrangements of Castle Garden. One of the officers might offer a
few prayers, or read a discourse, or raise a hymn, or the
chaplain of the State Hospital or other establishment in the
City might officiate in the evening.
Farewell, Castle Garden! I have met with nothing on the
continent of Europe that can at all compare with the spectacle
thou presenteth, and the benevolence and benefits that thou
bestoweth - sacred asylum of the emigrant escaped from the dead
ooze and dead lock of the Old World to the new life and
progress, splendor and expansiveness of the New, where, under
thy paternal and excelsior system, he may be no longer subjected
to the terrors of landlordism, the tyranny of taxation or the
evils of class representation; but, being welcomed into the
great family of freedom and becoming a loyal son of the
Republic, almost realize the Arcadian representation of the
poet, when he tells them to go.
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